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J'effectue donc le teste proposé (teste des afficheurs sans les fusibles F2 et F3) et le jeu ne plante pas. Si à ça je rajoute que David pense que mes problèmes peuvent provenir de l'alimentation, il semble que le condensateur soit un peu fatigué. Je décide donc de le changer.Testing for Resets.
To narrow this down to a intermittent connection (points 1,2,3,4 above), or to a +5 volt filter cap, missing diode or switch problem, try the following. With the game off, remove fuses F2 and F3 from the power supply (solenoid and lamp matrix fuses). Now turn the game on and go into self test. Put the game in the "digits test" (which conveniently is the first self test), so that the displays are cycling all the different score display numbers. Now just walk away for a couple of hours or more (letting this test run overnight works well).
Upon returning, if the score digits are not cycling, then the game reset without any game play occuring. This means there is an intermittent problem (points 1,2,3,4 above). If the game is still in the digits test, then the reset problem is probably a bad +5/12 volt filter capacitor, broken coil diode, or a switch matrix problem.
Bad 5/12 volt Filter Cap.
A bad +5/12 volt filter capacitor will really only show its ugly head when the game is played. The coils turning on and off forces the +5 vdc filter cap to work harder. If it's bad, it should show pretty quickly in game play. Likewise for bad coil diodes, and switch matrix problems (though often switch matrix problems can be duplicated in the diagnostics switch matrix test).
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